บันทึกของพระคุณลุงคนเชียงใหม่ถึงหลานๆ เรื่องภัยพิบัติ

ฮึๆๆๆๆๆ ประเภทท่อปูน ตู้คอนเทนเนอร์อย่างที่เห็นนี้

ถ้าเจอแผ่นดินไหวเกิน 5.5 ริกเตอร์ขึ้นไป ล่ะก้อ....
รับประกันไม่กลิ้งเป็นทองม้วนก็ต้องตีลังกาแบบขนมลูกเต๋า นะครับ

จะยึดยังงัยก็สู้ยึดติดกับพื้นดินไม่ได้ เพียงแต่เทคนิคนั่นใครจะใช้วิธีไหน เท่านั้น

 

อาจต่อกันเป็นเครือข่าย






รุปแบบการใช้งาน

 

ลองดูหลุดหลบภัยของอเมริกากันค่ะ เค้าเตรียมไว้สำหรับ ป้องกันรังสีนิวเคลียร์

• [FONT=Georgia, Times, Times New Roman, Serif]Home Outside Concrete Shelter -- This FEMA pamphlet provides plans for constructing a separate below-ground shelter (632Kb, PDF).[/FONT]
• [FONT=Georgia, Times, Times New Roman, Serif]Aboveground Home Shelter -- "Intended for persons who prefer an aboveground shelter," this pamphlet provides schematics for building a shelter to survive 5 p.s.i. over-pressures (806kb, PDF).[/FONT]
• [FONT=Georgia, Times, Times New Roman, Serif]Home Fallout Shelter (Plan A) -- These plans detail the building of a "modified ceiling shelter-basement location (526kb, PDF).[/FONT]
• [FONT=Georgia, Times, Times New Roman, Serif]Home Fallout Shelter (Plan C) -- These plans detail a concrete block shelter-basement location (223kb, PDF).[/FONT]
• [FONT=Georgia, Times, Times New Roman, Serif]Home Fallout Shelter (Plan E) -- These plans show how to construct a tilt-up storage unit shelter (319kb, PDF).[/FONT]
• [FONT=Georgia, Times, Times New Roman, Serif]Home Fallout Shelter (Plan F) -- These plans illustrate how to create a lean-to shelter in a home basement (279KB, PDF).[/FONT]

ลองดูนะค่ะ มีหลายไอเดีย คล้ายๆกับที่เราคิดกัน

 

<table border="0" width="755"> <tbody><tr> <td>Domestic Nuclear Shelters

Advice on domestic shelters providing protection against nuclear explosions


A Home Office Guide

<hr> Domestic Nuclear Shelters

This booklet is a brief guide to three basic kinds of nuclear shelter:

• Simple shelters for short-term indoor or out-door use which can be built from materials already at hand.
• Shelters that can be assembled from do-it-yourself kits.
• Permanent custom-built shelters built into the ground and requiring professional help in design and construction.

<hr> Further information

Additional information about protection from nuclear attack is to be found in the booklet Protect and Survive available from Her Majestys Stationery Office and main booksellers or by post from HMSO bookshops.
Detailed technical guidance on shelter design and Construction is available in Domestic Nuclear Shelters- Technical Guidance published by HMSO. More detailed description of the effects of nuclear weapons can be found in Nuclear Weapons published by HMSO.
The likely effects of a nuclear attack

Light and heat

A nuclear explosion produces an intense flash of light lasting some seconds which would blind anyone seeing it. The heat flash can set fire to buildings up to some distance from the centre of the explosion depending upon the haziness of the atmosphere at the time. Skin exposed to the heat flash could suffer burns. But any shelter that withstands the blast would give protection against the heat flash. Any exposed parts of the shelter made of flammable material could catch fire. Exposed plastic would not catch fire hut might distort in the heat and this could weaken the resistance of the shelter to the subsequent blast wave.
Initial nuclear radiation (INR)

This very penetrating radiation is emitted from the fireball within one minute of the explosion. The distances from one megaton explosions and above, at which people require shielding from INR, are less than those distances at which there would be total destruction.
Blast

At the moment of explosion a blast wave would be generated, travelling at a tremendous speed and creating extremely strong winds which may last for several seconds. When the blast wave passes over a building the sudden increase of pressure and the following wind may cause the building either to explode or collapse.
Tremors

The tremors or shock waves from a ground blast extend for a short distance only and would not affect buildings beyond those already destroyed by the blast. The effect on shelters below the ground would depend on their ability to withstand ground movement and on the nature of the soil. Depth in the ground, shape and flexibility would be important.
Fallout

An explosion on or near the ground sucks up a large amount of earth and debris, which is vaporised as it rises to a great height and becomes high]y radioactive. It then condenses to sand-like particles which are carried along by the wind and drop to the ground. This fallout can come down very near to the explosion or may be carried by the wind for hundreds of miles. The fallout dust is usually visible to the naked eye, but it emits ionising radiation rather like X-rays, which cannot be seen or felt. Radiation is dangerous and heavy doses cause sickness or death. Fallout dust remains radioactive for some days after the explosion - and can, in certain circumstances, still he dangerous after several weeks.
Bombs exploding on or near the ground

When a nuclear weapon explodes on or near the ground, a shock like a small earthquake goes through the ground. The earth vaporised into the fireball leaves a crater around the site of the explosion. The vaporised earth falls to the ground from half an hour to up to about a day later as radioactive fallout.


Bombs exploding in the air

When a nuclear bomb explodes in the air the blast effect is more marked. The area affected will be about 30 per cent greater than a ground burst bomb of the same size. But with air-burst weapons there is no dangerous radioactive fallout - since the fireball does not touch the ground no earth is sucked up.


Fig 3 - The extent of blast, fire and INR effects

Air burst (1 megaton)


Ground burst (1 megaton)



</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="0" cellpadding="5" width="755"> <tbody><tr> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Limit of:[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]A[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Total destruction[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]x[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Approx. range of INR within which shielding is vital[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]z[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Blistering to exposed skin[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]B[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Irreparable damage[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]y[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Fire zone[/FONT]</td> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]C[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Severe/moderate damage [/FONT]</td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="0" width="755"> <tbody><tr> <td>
What happens to fallout after a nuclear attack

It is important to remember that the radiation emitted from fallout decreases as time passes, very rapidly at first and more slowly later. For example. after seven hours the radiation emitted will have fallen to one tenth of its strength and after two days to one hundredth.
When the intensity has fallen sufficiently it will be safe to emerge from your shelter for short periods. You will be advised by radio when this is, and for how long you can stay outside. At first it might be safe to spend only an hour or so a day in the open but this safe period will gradually increase until it becomes safe to stay outside all the time. Even in the worst affected areas it might be safe to leave the shelter altogether after about two weeks and in most places this period would be very much shorter.
When outside the shelter no special clothing is required. but it would be advisable to wear outdoor clothing and wellington boots or stout shoes to avoid contamination of your indoor clothes. You should remove these clothes before re-entering the shelter.
The shelters described later on in this booklet offer differing degrees of protection against blast and against fallout. They will also provide protection against the heat flash provided no flammable materials are exposed. No shelter is capable of protecting someone close to the site of a nuclear explosion. but for those who are far enough away to survive the initial effects. The principal danger after the explosion is from radioactive fallout.
Dense material around a shelter will lessen the risk of harm from radiation so long as you remain inside. Essentially the thicker the material the better the protection. But some protective materials are more effective than others.
Below is a list of common materials likely to be used in the construction of a shelter. Their value as protection against radiation is given in terms of the thickness required to reduce radiation by one half thus 2 in. of lead gives the same protection as 3 1/2 in. of slates.
The protection given by buildings or shelters can be expressed as a protective factor. A typical house will reduce the power of the radiation to one fifteenth of that outside - this is called a protective factor of 15. Shelters constructed of the right materials can give a much greater protective factor than this.
</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table bgcolor="#006EA0" border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" width="755"> <tbody><tr> <td colspan="5">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]
Some relative protection values[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="150"> </td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Inches[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="150"> </td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Inches[/FONT]</td> <td width="200"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]LEAD[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]0.5[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]STONE[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]2.2[/FONT]</td> <td rowspan="7" valign="top" width="200">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Increased thicknesses of material reduce the intensity of ionising radiation. For example, each 2.2 in. of concrete reduces the intensity by half, so a thickness of 8.8 in. of concrete would reduce the radiation to one sixteenth of its original intensity.[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]STEEL[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]0.7[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]BRICKWORK[/FONT]</td> <td>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]2.8[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]TILES[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]1.0 to 1.9[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]SAND[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]2.9[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td rowspan="2" valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]CORRUGATED[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]ASBESTOS[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]SHEET[/FONT]</td> <td rowspan="2" valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]2.0[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]EARTH[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]3.3[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]PLASTER[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]3.5[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]ASPHALT[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]2.2[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]SLATES[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]3.5[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]CONCRETE[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]2.2[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="150">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]WOOD[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top" width="80">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]8.8[/FONT]</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="0" width="755"> <tbody><tr> <td>
The overall picture

If there were a nuclear attack. it is likely that some bombs might burst in the air. and some on or near the ground. Estimates suggest that around 5 per cent of the land area of the UK might suffer seriously from the effects of blast. We cannot, of course, know in advance where the bombs would fall, but about 80 per cent of the land area might suffer no blast effects at all. Any part of the country might suffer fallout therefore radiation protection would be needed everywhere.
Types of shelters

The section that follows describes four different types of shelter, the kind of protection they offer, and where they can be sited. The examples illustrated are from the detailed designs in Domestic Nuclear Shelters - Technical Guidance. It may be possible to vary the materials or the methods of construction shown in this booklet, without reducing the degree of protection provided, but if you propose to do so, check that your shelter will still conform to the guidance in that publication. If you decide to consult someone about a shelter you should check that they are professionally qualified, preferably as an architect or chartered civil/structural engineer.
The Home Office proposes to publish further designs later. These designs will probably include at least one using glass reinforced plastic (fibre glass).
</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" width="755"> <tbody><tr> <td valign="top"> </td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Type 1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Improvised[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Type 2[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Indoor kit[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Type 3[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Outdoor kit[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Type 4[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Purpose built[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Blast Protection psi (pounds per square inch)[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Up to 1.5[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Up to 6[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Up to 11[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]In excess of 11[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Fallout Radiation[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Protection Factor[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Not less than 40[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Not less than 70[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Not less than 200[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]In excess of 300. Also protects against INR[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Distance from a one[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica]megaton air burst[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica]beyond which shelter[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica]will remain intact[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]7 miles[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]3 miles[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]2 miles[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Closer than 2 miles depending on design[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Ventilation[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Natural[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Natural or forced[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Forced[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Forced[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Site of installation[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]In house or garden[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]In house[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]In garden.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Sectional for access through house[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]In garden. Appropriate access to garden necessary[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Forethought and[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica]planning[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Install in crisis.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Some materials can be prepared in advance[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Obtain in peace-time. Install in crisis[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Obtain in peace-time. Install in peace time or crisis[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica](Can be installed as a permanent shelter)[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Install in peace-time using professional advice and help[/FONT]</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Approximate expected[/FONT] [FONT=Arial,Helvetica]cost (1980)[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Nominal if using local materials: scaffold frame about £250[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Kit £500-£800[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Bricks £300[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Kit £900-£1800[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Plus any installation costs[/FONT]</td> <td valign="top">[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]£6000-£10,000 (but more sophisticated designs would obviously cost more)[/FONT]</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="0" width="755"> <tbody><tr> <td>

• A garden shelter should preferably be at least half the height of the nearest house away to avoid debris from collapsed buildings. It should also be away from large trees. Before removing earth check that you cannot damage drainage or other services.

Planning permission, Building Regulations and rating

If you wish to install a permanent shelter you may need permission. You should check the regulations before submitting plans or beginning work. Your local District Council will tell you about planning permission and the Building Regulations. A permanent shelter may affect the rateable value of your home, and this is a matter for your local District Valuer and Valuation Officer (Regional Assessor in Scotland).
Type 1a

Easily-constructed improvised garden shelter using household materials

This shelter is suitable for areas where under ground shelters are impracticable, for example, where there is a high water table, so that a deep hole fills with water. It can be constructed using only materials which are generally available, and could be built in a time of crisis. It would take two people about 24 working hours each to build.
The shelter consists of a shallow trench dug into the ground with a roof of doors or sheet timber that is supported above ground level by earth walls. The structure is then covered by at least 18 in. of earth.
This basic design will give good protection from fallout radiation particularly if the occupants keep away from the entrance area. If, in addition, a barrier of sandbags or packed soil is built about two feet in front of the entrance, and to the same height, the protection in the entrance area will be improved.
Construction

1. Select a site on level ground where there is little chance of rainwater collecting.
2. You will need:

• i. Pick, shovel or spade (preferably both), wheelbarrow or buckets, saw, screw-driver, knife, tape measure, pencil and paper, and a pair of gloves. ii. Pieces of large sheeting material. e.g. carpets. blankets. sheets, heavy duty polythene, sacking etc. for making earth rolls (Fig 7).
  iii. Plastic bags or pillowcases for making sandbags.
  iv. Timber: pieces of 2 in. x 4 in. wood at least 3 ft long are must useful although any suitable strong timber could be used for the cross braces (Fig 6). Floor-boards about 4 ft long could be used for entrance and exit tunnels (Fig 13).
  v. Nails: 100 x 2 in. steel nails, 30 x 4 in. steel nails.
  vi. Doors: one door (normally about 30 in. wide) per person is required, together with one door each for entrance and exit. Fittings such as handles should be removed. If you do not have enough doors, sheet timber can be used.
  vii. Rainproofing material to cover the doors, e.g. polythene sheeting, shower curtains and vinyl floorcovering .
  viii. Pegs and string for markers and tying sandbags.

3. Construct the shelter as shown in Figs 4-14.
4. Furnish the shelter as required.



40 in. by 2 in. temporary timber braces between doors.
Doors in position - construct temporary supporting structure of doors and timber against which earth rolls can be built (frame is removed later and doors, then used to form a roof).



[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Fig 8 - Construction of earth rolls[/FONT]











Type 1b

Improvised outdoor shelter using do-it-yourself materials

The following diagrams show how a basic shelter can be constructed from standard scaffold poles and other materials available from builders merchants, timber yards and do-it-yourself stores.
This type of shelter could be constructed in a time of crisis from materials previously purchased and stored. It would take two people about 24 working hours each to build this shelter - the size is adaptable.
The dimensions given would accommodate a family of four for a short period or two people plus provisions for longer.
This shelter uses steel or alloy, standard diameter scaffold poles. These are arranged in a series of 'A' frames over a trench. It is necessary to brace the frames with further scaffolding both diagonally along its length and across the waists of the 'A' sections to give rigidity. In both cases proprietary clamps are the best method of securing the scaffold poles to each other.
Prepare a trench 8 ft. x 8 ft. and at least 1 ft. 6 in. deep. Line it with heavy duty polythene sheeting. Lay a floor of two sheets of plywood, 3/4 in. thick and 4 ft. x 8 ft.

Construct the frame of scaffold poles (or you could use wood). This should be as strong as you can make it. You can increase the strength with vertical and diagonal bracing, or crossbars.

Add the frame for the entrance tunnel, and also the ventilation pipe (described opposite).
Cover the entire frame (except the entrance hole) with plywood boarding. Any small gaps or sharp edges should be covered with carpet or thick fabric.

Wrap the shelter with overlapping sheets of heavy duty polythene. Make sure the trench lining is within this cover.

Finally, cover the shelter with a thick layer of earth (about 18 in.). The earth removed from the trench may not be enough for this. It you decide to dig a deeper initial trench to get enough earth to cover, you may need to make some modifications to the design given here.
The shelter will give better blast protection if you put a layer of resilient material between the polythene and the earth covering. Straw, mattresses, or similar, would be suitable.
The entrance can be filled from within with small bags of sand or earth. You will have to store these inside the shelter.

Ventilation

For this shelter you will need to make some provision for ventilation. The diagrams show metal drainpipes with a bend near the opening, so that this faces downward. The opening should then be filled with a filter of steel wool. It is extremely important to ensure that ventilation pipes are secure and kept free of obstruction.


<table border="1" cellpadding="10" width="500"> <tbody><tr> <td>The following two designs are intended to be sold by manufacturers as kits together with installation instructions. Design drawings are to be found in Domestic Nuclear Shelters - Technical Guidance. </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Type 2

Indoor shelter from manufactured kit

This type of shelter - basically a protective steel table - is suitable for homes that have basements or rooms that can be converted into 'fallout rooms' (described in Protect and Survive) provided that the floor is strong enough to support it.
This shelter will sustain the debris load resulting from the complete collapse of a normal two-storey house. To obtain protection from fallout, it must be surrounded with dry-laid bricks, sand or earth bags or heavy furniture filled with sand, earth or books.
The shelter is designed to accommodate two adults and two children. Two shelters or more may be put together to increase the capacity.
It would take two people about two hours to erect the shelter itself and up to an additional 20 hours to surround it with protective material.

Type 3

Outdoor shelter from a manufactured kit

This type of shelter is generally suitable where there is a garden or other convenient land near the living accommodation. It is formed by building a strong structural shell with prefabricated steel components bolted together to form a sealed room of sufficient size for up to six people. The shell is semi-sunk in the ground and covered entirely by earth from the excavation.
There will be variations both in materials and construction depending upon the costs. The assembly of the shell would take a full days work for two people. The excavation could, however, take at least a week for two people digging by hand.
While the kit could be bought in readiness and digging and installation done over a period of time the materials would have to be non-corrosive, and not likely to deteriorate.

Type 4

Permanent purpose-built shelter

This reinforced concrete shelter must be erected by a building contractor under the guidance of a chartered civil/structural engineer. It should on no account be erected by unskilled or unsupervised labour.
If properly constructed it will give a high degree of protection against both blast and radiation. It can be designed to accommodate from six to 12 people and the cost will vary accordingly.

Stocking your shelter

Life in the confined space of a survival shelter needs careful planning.
You should store as much as possible of the following in your shelter:
Water

Water in sealed or covered containers to last you and your family for 14 days. Four pints per person per day would be sufficient for drinking and basic cleanliness.
Food

Enough food for 14 days, including tinned or powdered milk for the children and food for the baby - and a closed cupboard or cabinet in which to store these supplies.
A nutritionally balanced diet is not important for this length of time. A list of suggested foods and quantities for one adult is given at the back of this booklet. These have been chosen because they store easily and most can be eaten cold.
Nursing mothers will need extra food and children between the ages of one and five years should be counted as half an adult for the purposes of food stocks. They should also have the equivalent in dried or evaporated milk of one pint of milk per day. If your family includes a baby that is not breast fed you should provide dried infant formula.
Alternatives to this are 7kg of full cream evaporated milk and 1/2kg sugar or 2 1/2kg full cream dried milk and 1/2kg sugar, which should be sufficient for two weeks. To this can be added mashed 'adult' foods if the infant is more than three or four months old.
Radio

A portable radio (and a spare if possible) and spare batteries.
This is absolutely essential. It will be your only way of receiving instructions on when it is sate to leave your shelter and for how long. In the case of shelter types 3 and 4 an external aerial may be necessary.
Miscellaneous

Tin opener, bottle opener, cutlery, crockery and cooking utensils.
Warm clothing and footwear and changes of clothing.
Bedding. sleeping bags, etc.
Torches with spare bulbs and batteries, candles and matches. Open flames should not be used in shelter types 3 and 4 until the shelter door can be opened.
Toilet articles and washbowls.
First aid kit.
Notebooks and pencils for noting radio instructions.
Cleaning materials: including cloths, tissues, brushes, shovels and box of dry sand.
Garden spade
Improvised lavatory seat, polythene buckets fitted with covers, polythene bag linings for emptying the contents, strong disinfectant and toilet paper. Alternatively camping or caravan type toilet arrangements may be used.
Clock and calendar.
and just outside your shelter

Dustbin for temporary storage of waste matter.
Second dustbin for food remains. empty tins and other rubbish.
Polythene bag or bin for outdoor clothes and boots.
If possible. extra water supplies in covered containers, and games, children's toys and books.
Stoves burning liquid fuel or gas may be used at or just outside the entrance of shelter types 1, 1a and 2, or in a similar way in types lb, 3 and 4 but only when it is safe to open the hatch or door. Otherwise you should not use a stove of this kind in a sealed shelter.
Suggested food list

Supplies for two weeks for one adult

</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table bgcolor="#FFFFFF" border="0" cellpadding="5" width="755"> <tbody><tr> <td>Biscuits, crackers, breakfast cereals etc.</td> <td>2750g (6 lb)*</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Canned meat or fish (e.g. corned beef, luncheon meat, stewed steak, pilchards, sardines)</td> <td>2000g (4¼ lb)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Canned vegetables (e.g. baked beans, carrots, potatoes, sweetcorn etc.)</td> <td>1800g (4 lb)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Canned margarine or butter, or peanut butter</td> <td>500g (1 lb)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Jam, marmalade, honey or spread </td> <td>500g (1 lb)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Canned soups</td> <td>6 cans</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Full cream evaporated milk or dried milk</td> <td>14 small cans or 2 x 300g(1/2 lb) containers</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Sugar</td> <td>700g (1 1/2 lb)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Tea or coffee (instant)</td> <td>250g (1/2 lb)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Boiled sweets or other sweets</td> <td>450g (1 lb)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Canned fruit, fruit juices, fruit squash, drinking chocolate</td> <td>If sufficient storage space is available</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Approximate cost (mid 1980)</td> <td>£15-£20</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2">* Imperial equivalents are only approximate.</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2">This list is based on the assumption that cooking will not be possible and that the opportunities for warming foods or boiling water may be limited. For further details see Domestic Nuclear Shelters - Technical Guidance.</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="0" width="755"> <tbody><tr> <td>
Protect and survive


Keep this booklet handy

<hr> Further reading
A booklet, Nuclear Weapons (ISBN 0 II 340557 X), published by Her Majesty's Stationery Office, is also available. It contains detailed information about the effects of nuclear weapons and will be of interest to those who wish to further their knowledge of the subject.
<hr> Prepared for the Home Office by the Central Office of Information 1981.
Printed in England for Her Majestys' Stationary Office by
Sackville Press (Billericay) Ltd.
ISBN 0 11 340737 8 K400 Dd716560
HMSO 50 pence (net)
First Published 1981
<hr> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td>


</td> <td>
Home

</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <hr> This document is believed to be in the public domain and was transferred to the Internet by George Coney.
Last updated June 1999
Send mail to atomic@cybertrn.demon.co.uk
</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <hr>

 

แล้วเรื่องการกรองอากาศล่ะครับ เขามีวิธีการอย่างไรครับ

 

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The nuclear grade HEPA filter



[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Replacement filters[/FONT]
​

<table border="0" cellpadding="6" width="100%" height="2299"> <tbody><tr> <td valign="top" width="40%">

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$55.00 (US$)[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ASR-50-PF: Pre-filter set
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Please contact ASR to order[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​

​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]click on image above to enlarge[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$335.00 (US$)[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ASR-50-HEPA: Nuclear-grade HEPA filter
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Please contact ASR to order[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​

​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]click on image above to enlarge[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$395.00 (US$)[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ASR-50-CA: Nuclear grade carbon adsorber
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Please contact ASR to order[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​

​

<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="4" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td> </td> </tr> </tbody></table>

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Complete replacement filter set. Includes all three items above for one lower price.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$690.00 (US$)[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ASR-50-FILTERS
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Please contact ASR to order[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​

​

</td> <td valign="top" width="4%"> </td> <td valign="top" width="56%"> [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]These replacement filters are of the highest quality. They are all easily replaced by using simple hand tools (two Crescent wrenches) and a suitable receptacle such as a plastic bag to place to old filter in. For more information about how to replace the filters, please see the Safe Cell manual.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]All of these filters come with the Safe Cell:[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Pre-filters
The pre-filters are designed to extend the life of the HEPA filter by trapping both large and small particles. The first filter is the roughing filter with an average efficiency of 25 to 30 percent when tested in accordance with ASHRAE 52.1. The roughing filter extends the life of the intermediate filter or pre-filter and reduces its change frequency. The second filter is the intermediate filter with an average efficiency of 80 to 85 percent when tested in accordance with ASHRAE 52.1.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The HEPA filter
The nuclear grade HEPA filter is a special filter we have made just for our application.Each HEPA filter is individually tested to MIL-STD-282 before it leaves the factory, your assurance that it meets rated efficiency. The penetration and actual airflow rate are indicated on the label. Each filter is also assigned an individual serial number.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Every HEPA filter is individually DOP tested: This has been the industry standard test method for many years. It is conducted using a forward light scattering photometer. The HEPA is challenged with 0.3 micrometer particles of dioctyl-phthalate (DOP). By measuring the upstream and downstream concentration of these particles, the HEPA filter cell efficiency can be calculated. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Underwriters Laboratories Classification UL 586: This classification to insure that each HEPA filter cell is individually tested at the factory. Additionally, representative HEPA filter cells are tested by UL to ensure that they provide their rated HEPA level filtration, after being subjected to the following conditions of a high moisture environment of (90% R.H.), a high temperature environment of (371 deg/C), low temperature environment of (-3 deg/C). UL also subjects the HEPA filter cell to a spot flame test of (954 deg/C).[/FONT]

• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Media: Water repellant glass micro fiber 99.97% True HEPA cell type (A)[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Cell Side Material: Fire retardant particle board[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Separators: Aluminum
  Bond: Polyurethane foam[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Gasket Material: Neoprene (RE43E1)[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Gasket Location: Both sides[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Factory Test: Certified 99.97% (DOP)[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] UL 866 Label: Required:
  [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Carbon adsorber
The nuclear grade war gas adsorber is a block sieve adsorption filter cell consisting of two containment medias and a center block of blended granual nuclear grade war gas carbon and ASZM-TEDA. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This special blend of two kinds of activated carbon adsorbs warfare gases and radioactive iodine in order to meet the requirements of US Army Corps of Engineers ETL 1110-3-498 standard for war gas removal.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Carbon blend specifications:[/FONT]

• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Activated impregnated NUK-TK TEDA Nuclear grade TEDA for removal of radio active iodine[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] ASZM-TEDA copper-silver-zinc-molylebeunm-triethylenediamine[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Critical standards that we meet or exceed:[/FONT]

• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ASTM D 2854-1996: industry standard test method for apparent density of activated carbon[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] ASTM D 2867-1999: industry standard test method for moisture in activated carbon[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] ASTM D 3802-1997: industry standard test method for ball-pan hardness of activated carbon[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] ASTM D 3467: activity for CCL - 60% minimum[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] ASTM D 2862/D5158: particle size: 4X8 Mesh U.S.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] ASTM D 3838: pH aqueous extract - 9.2 minimum[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ASTM D 3466: ignition temperature 330C[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] ASTM D 3803: radioactive iodine removal[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Impregnated with 2.1 Potassium iodide, 3.1% TEDA[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] EA C 1704-1992: chemical research development and engineering
  center purchase[/FONT]

​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]How long will a set of filters last?
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]That's sort of a loaded question. Room air filter manufactures can know with some certainty what their filters will be challenged with. With NBC filters, that is an unknown.

We saw on 9-11-2001 a few inches of fine dust on the streets of New York. Any particulate filter will quickly clog with this kind of challenge. On the other end of the spectrum, a light dusting of fallout won't do much to the filter. In fact, particulate filters (pre-filters and the HEPA) actually filter better as they load up. The particulates that they catch act to increase the area of the filter. As the filter loads up, it puts out less airflow.

The carbon adsorber is a different situation. It does not adsorb better as it loads up. It uses a process called adsorption to attract and hold gas particles on the surface of the carbon. It does not care what kind of gas it is adsorbing - that is why we like to see the filter buttoned up with the shipping caps until it is needed. Water vapor is a true gas that loves to adsorb to the carbon graduals. And when the carbon loads up, the only feedback is that the carbon adsorber increases in weight very slightly. If you had a very accurate scale, you could measure the adsorber before and after and tell if it's had it's life used up.

We tell people that our filters will last "one event." That is, if you have a mushroom cloud on the horizon or a nuclear plant releasing radiation, when you receive the all clear, then it is time to take the entire Safe Cell off the wall, take it outside, remove the old filters, and install new ones.

When the headlines for the Japanese nuclear release started to generate interest in NBC filters, we were out of replacement filters within a couple of days. It's surprising the number of people who don't purchase a spare filter set with their Safe Cell. Our HEPA's are a month out from the manufacturer and our carbon that we have blended just for us is a month out.[/FONT]​

</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <hr> <table border="0" cellpadding="6" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td valign="top" width="48%"> [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]You are on this page:
Nuclear, Biological, and Chemical (NBC) air filter/ventilation systems for collective protection in safe rooms and vehicles
Safe-Cell-replacement-filters.htm[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]American Safe Room Websites:
AmericanSafeRoom.com
AmericanBombShelter.com[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
AmericanIsolationRoom.com
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]NBCSafeRoom.com[/FONT]
</td> <td valign="top" width="52%">

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Contact Information:
American Safe Room
868 Murdock Drive
Oakland, OR 97462[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Telephone: 541-459-1806
FAX: 503-212-6695
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sales:[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] sales@AmericanBombShelter.com
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Engineering:[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] info@AmericanSafeRoom.com[/FONT]​

</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

แบบนี้หลังคาสามเหลี่ยมกับ สนามเพลาะ นี่เจ๋งครับ คุณ ZZ สร้างบนดินในความลึกไม่มาก ราคาไม่แพงใช้แรงงานครอบครัวช่วยกันทำได้ในเวลารวดเร็ว ให้การป้องกัน รังสีX และความร้อนได้ดีพอควรจากชั้นดินที่กลบหุ้ัมหลังคา ขุดดินก็ไม่ลึกมาก ขอบคุณครับที่หามาฝากกำลังคิดแบบอยู่ เพราะทำเลที่ปลอดภัย ของ Zeta คือ 500 กม.จากกรุงเทพฯ และ ระดับความสูง 600-700 ฟุตจากระดับน้ำทะเล คงจะขนตู้คอนเทนเนอร์หรือท่อคอนกรีตขึ้นไปลำบากมากและ ค่าใช้จ่ายสูง ทรงแบบหลุมหลบระเิบิดนี้ดีมากครับ

 

*New HEPA Filter*
Part One of Two
[SIZE=+2]By: Spitfire
16 March 2005[/SIZE]​

With all the recent scare over Bird Flu, I decided it was time to improve the shelters positive air filtration system. When I built the first filter box in early 2003, I was concerned about Anthrax, which is a relatively large contagion and pretty easily filtered out with multiple layers of commonly available high MERV rated furnace filters. Viruses are a whole lot smaller than Anthrax and I had no confidence that the old filter would be effective. The next 2 pictures are the OLD filter box, just for some background. DON’T build one like this and expect to filter out viruses! In fact, don’t build one like this at all. The new design further down the page is a true HEPA filter, easier to build and service and it costs about the same. I’m only including these 2 pictures so you can learn from my earlier experience and save yourself a lot of unnecessary trouble.​

​

This is the OLD filter box from the outside.​

​

This is the inside of the OLD filter box. I had high confidence that the multiple layers of MERV 12 filters would catch most if not all Anthrax spores, but viruses are another matter all together. For one thing, I couldn’t be sure the foam tape I used around the filters would stay in place over time (if did, but it’s still a weak point) plus, even 4 layers of MERV 12 can’t guarantee something as small as a virus won’t get through. I could have used MERV 14 hospital grade filters but then the cost got to be more than a commercial HEPA filter and I still had doubts about sealing it all up.​

So, let’s move on to the better solution. Let me say first that this general design isn’t anything new, at least to the Rubicon. Sarge published an excellent article in 2003 with what he came up with. I just modified the design a little to make it easier for me to build and service.​

​

Here are the main parts for the new filter. The round HEPA filter in the upper left corner is a "get it almost anywhere" Honeywell 20500 type. Home Depot sells these, as do numerous web-based companies. The rods in the center are 36" long, 1/4x20 all thread (threaded along the entire length of the rod). These are also available at your favorite home improvement store. The white PVC fitting is called a toilet flange and can be found in the plumbing department. The plywood is พ" cabinet grade, sanded both sides. Don’t skimp here because you’re going to be counting on that piece of wood to hold the filter and toilet flange tightly together.​

​

I started by ripping two identical squares, 11.5" on each side on the table saw so that the plywood would be just a little wider than the filter diameter. If you use a different filter, adjust the plywood sizes to fit it. Then I drilled four 5/16" holes in the corners of both pieces for the ผ" rods to fit through. I drilled the holes an equal distance between the corner of the end plate and the outside of the HEPA filter. Finally, I made a 4" diameter hole in ONE of the pieces of plywood. This is where the toilet flange will go. I used a hole saw and a drill press to make this hole, but if you don’t have one you can use a jigsaw. You’re just trying to make a hole a little smaller than diameter of the inner hole in the HEPA filter that will match up with the toilet flange.​

​

Next, I cut one of the 36" pieces of threaded rod into 4 equal length pieces. These rods will be what hold the filter assembly together.​

TIP: When you cut threaded rod, the threads get messed up and you’ll need to fix that or the nuts won’t go on. I used a tap and die set because I have one, but an easier way is to put a nut on the threaded rod before you start cutting. Now cut the rod with a hacksaw, clean the burrs off with a file or grinder and then back the nut off the cut end. The nut will "chase" the threads (clean them up as it goes over the cut end).​

​

Put a ผ" fender washer (a fender washer is a large diameter washer with a small hole) and nut on one end of each rod and start them through the holes in the end cap with the big hole in it. When I made the prototype, I started on the end cap without the hole, forgetting that the filter would ultimately be mounted "upside down", which is why the pictures don’t match the words. Start the threaded rods on the big hole end. I wanted the nuts on this end not to move so I used Goop on the nut and under the washer.​

​

I put two ผ" beads of 100% silicone caulk on one end of the HEPA filter and then pressed it firmly onto the end plate with the threaded rods sticking out of it. I used silicon here instead of Goop because I wanted to be able to change the filter. Silicone makes a good tight seal but will break loose with a little twisting and prying - if you use Goop it isn’t going to come apart.​

​

Quickly put two more beads of silicone caulk on the other filter end and put the other end cap on over the threaded rods.​

​

Put fender washers and nuts on the rods and tightened them down. Be careful when tightening the nuts, you can easily apply enough pressure to crush the HEPA filter. Tighten them just enough so that silicon caulk begins to come out around the edges of the filter.​

​

Most PVC toilet flanges you’re going to find will have text molded into them on the side that will seal against the end cap of the filter assembly. This is a picture of the old filter box where I ripped the toilet flange off. (Might as well learn how well things worked) As you can see, it sealed fine around the text, but I wanted to do better.​

​

I took a mill bastard (no, I am NOT cursing, it’s the name for this type of file!) and filed off the raised letters to make a better seal. You can use sandpaper if you want.​

​

There, all the text is filed off and the plastic dust removed. I applied more silicone, a very healthy 5/16" bead all around the inner surface.​

​

I centered the toilet flange and pressed it down on the end cap over the big hole, then drilled some pilot holes for some ผ" hex head sheet metal bolts, put silicon caulk into the pilot holes and screwed the flange down. Be careful that your screws aren’t so long that they penetrate into the HEPA filter.​

​

Here’s the finished filter ready to be mounted in the attic.​

​

This is the filter assembly installed in the attic. Note that all PVC pipe fittings have been properly primed and glued together so that the whole length of pipe and all the joints are airtight. A prefilter will also be stapled to the outside edges of the plywood to prolong the life of the HEPA filter.​

In the next article I’ll show how I plumbed everything up.​

Parts List:​

1 each 2’x2’x3/4" cabinet grade plywood $?? (already had it lying around) (enough for two filters)​

2 each 1/2x20x36" threaded rods $3 each (enough for two filters)​

1 each Honeywell 20500 HEPA filter $50 (enough for one filter)​

1 each 3" PVC toilet flange (enough for one filter)​

8 each ผ" fender washers $0.25 each (enough for one filter)​

8 each 1/4x20 nuts $0.10 each (enough for one filter)​

8 each 1/4x3/4" hex head sheet metal screws $0.10 each (enough for one filter)​

1 tube 100% Silicone caulk $3​

1 tube Automotive Goop $ 4 (if you want to permanently attach one end of the threaded rods to the end cap - optional)​

This project worked out really well. I’m looking forward to getting it plumbed into the shelter and having true HEPA protection.
[SIZE=+2]Spitfire[/SIZE] ​

<hr align="left">

Alpha Disaster Contingencies
All materials at this site not otherwise credited are Copyright ฉ 1996 - 2005 Trip Williams. All rights reserved. May be reproduced for personal use only. Use of any material contained herein is subject to stated terms or written permission.



http://www.alpharubicon.com/basicnbc/newhepafiltersf.htm






Hepa Filter For Dc515 Vacuum

$33.99

HEPA filter traps 99.97% of dust as small as 0.3 microns, wet/dry filter eliminates change overs, washable filter- tap or water rinse to clean.

http://store.aihalaska.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_1301&products_id=34193





.
​

 

ขอบคุณสำหรับไอเดียนี้ค่ะ สำหรับนิวเคลียร์ เราต้องประยุกต์ ใช้กับพื้นที่แล้วค่ะ โดยส่วนตัวแล้วคิดว่าใครอยู่ในพื้นที่รอยต่อ รอยแยก แผ่นดินไหว หาทางย้ายออกเถอะค่ะ หรืออยู่ในพื้นที่น้ำท่วม มาอิสาน กันมั๊ยค่ะ เราจะได้รู้ว่าเราจะป้องกันได้แบบไหน จะได้เริ่มก่อสร้าง เตรียมตัวได้แล้วค่ะ เวลาเหลือน้อย แล้ว

 

ในความเห็นส่วนตัว Nuclear Shelter ในระยะอันตรายของการระเบิดไม่มีอยู่จริง

ถึงจะรอดเพราะอยู่อาศัยใต้ดิน แต่อากาศที่หายใจและที่ไม่สามารถขึ้นมาสู่บรรยากาศได้
ก็เท่ากับฝั่งตัวเองทั้งเป็น ทีนี้จะตายอย่างทรมานอย่างช้าๆ เพราะขาดปัจจัยสี่

ละอองกัมมันตภาพรังสีจะฟุ้งกระจายอยู่เช่นนั้นนานนับร้อยๆปี เพราะระเบิดรุ่นใหม่มีความรุนแรงกว่าที่ฮิโรชิมาหลายพันเท่า ครับ

ทางรอดเพียงทางเดียวจากสงครามนิวเคลียร์ คือ การอยู่ให้ห่างไกลที่สุดจากจุดอันตรายที่คาดว่าจะเกิดขึ้น เพราะเรื่องภัยจากรังสีไม่มีใครรรับประกันได้

แต่ Nirvana ยังเชื่อในบุญบารมีในร่มพระพุทธศาสนา อภิญญาญานของพระอริยะเจ้าที่ได้เมตตาสร้างวัตถุมงคลไว้ให้สาธุชนคนดีได้รักษาตัวให้พ้นภัย มีชีวิตรอดไปทะนุบำรุงพระศานาในยุคหน้า ครับ

 

Honeywell Commercial F112 & F113 HEPA Filters


<table class="parts" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td colspan="3"></td> </tr> <tr> <td rowspan="8"></td> <td></td> <td rowspan="8"></td> </tr> <tr> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td><table style="display: inline-table;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="180" align=""> <tbody><tr> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> </tbody></table></td> </tr> <tr> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td><table style="display: inline-table;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="180" align=""> <tbody><tr> <td></td> <td><table style="display: inline-table;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="137" align=""> <tbody><tr> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td></td> </tr> </tbody></table></td> <td></td> </tr> </tbody></table></td> </tr> <tr> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td><table style="display: inline-table;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="180" align=""> <tbody><tr> <td></td> <td></td> <td></td> </tr> </tbody></table></td> </tr> <tr> <td></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="528"><tbody><tr><td>

</td> <td style="text-align:right">

</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

อย่าลืมเตรียมอุปกรณ์ หลังจากรอดรอบแรกนะ
Nuclear Winter และ Mini Ice age
พวกอาหารที่เป็นพืชเมืองร้อน คงตายหมด
ต้องคิดเรื่อง ป้องกันหนาว
และอาหารเมืองหนาว
ไม่งั้นตายเย็น หรืออดอยาก จะทรมานมากกว่านะ

 

อยากติดต่อกับคุณวิกรมครับ

ผมเองได้อ่านขอ้ความจาก คนรู้จัก ผมเองมีความเชื่อจริงๆ
เพราะหลวงพ่อฤาษีลิงดำ เคยกล่าวในหนังสือที่ผมอ่านเหมือนกัน เลยอยากจะ
ติดต่อกับคุณวิกรม เพื่อจะได้เตรียมตัวไว้ครับ

 

ขอบคุณเจ้าของกระทู้และผู้แสดงความคิดเห็นที่มีคุณค่าทุกท่านครับ
ถ้าเป็นน้ำท่วม แผ่นดินไหว พายุถล่ม ยังพอลุ้นว่าอาจจะรอด 50/50
แต่ถ้าเป็นแสงและเสียงแล้วล่ะก็ คงรอดยากครับ
ทุกวันนี้ได้แต่เตรียมใจ และสวดมนต์ไหว้พระ ทำสมาธิครับ รอดก็ดี ไม่รอดก็ไม่เป็นไร
ขอแค่จังหวะจะหมดลมหายใจ จิตจดจ่ออยู่กับองค์ภาวนา พุทธ โธ ก็เป็นใช้ได้แล้วล่ะครับ
ผมขอเป็นกำลังใจ ขออวยพรให้ทุกท่านอยู่รอดปลอดภัยกันทุกๆท่านนะครับ

 

อยากได้แปลนสร้างที่หลบภัยมากๆๆๆๆครับใครมีช่วยลงให้หน่อยครับ

 

ขอเอาผลของเหตุการณ์ของพระคุณลุงมาบอกกล่าวว่าจะเกิดอะไรขึ้นตามวิทยาศาสตร์นะครับ

ฟ้ามืดสนิท...เมื่อไม่มีแสงอาทิตย์ให้ความร้อนแล้ว ประมาณเอาว่าอุณหภูมิอาจเย็นลงเท่ากับ
หรือเย็นกว่าขั้วโลกใต้ก็ได้ ซึ่งขั้วโลกใต้มีอุณหภูมิ -25 ถึง -80 แต่พื้นแผ่นดินที่สะสมความร้อนอยู่ ทำให้คาดเดาไม่ได้ว่าอุณหภูมิจะลดลงขนาดไหนนะครับ เพราะฉะนั้นการเตรียมการป้องกันความหนาวต้องคาดเดาถึงอุณหภูมิที่ผมเอ่ยถึงด้วยนะครับ ถึงมันจะมีความมืดสนิทแค่ 3 วันเองก็ตาม

โลกสะดุดกึ๊ก...ในขณะที่โลกหมุนเป็นปรกติอยู่นั้น ตัวเราและทุกสิ่งบนผิวโลกมีการเคลื่อนที่ราว 1670 กิโลเมตรต่อชั่วโมง(40093 กิโลเมตร/24ชั่วโมง) ความรุ่นแรงขนาดไหนนั้นขึ้นอยู่กับว่าโลกสะดุดนานหรือนิ่งแค่ไหน และถ้าเราเอาตู้คอนเทนเนอร์หรืออื่นๆไปตั้งขวางการหมุนของโลก มันจะมีลักษณะพลิกกลับหรือหมุนกลิ้งได้ตามความรุนแรง เราต้องตั้งตู้คอนเทนเนอร์ตามแนวยาวมีทิศทางเดียวกับการหมุนของโลกด้วย

มีฟ้าผ่าขนาดใหญ่เสียงเหมือนระเบิดหิน ถ้าเดาตามดูน่าจะเกิดฟ้าผ่าที่รุนแรง การใช้ตู้คอนเทนเนอร์สามารถป้องกันกระแสจะฟ้าผ่ามาที่ตัวยเราได้(faraday cage) แต่ตัวเราห้ามแตะส่วนที่เป็นโลหะโดยเด็ดขาด
<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Zi4kXgDBFhw?version=3&feature=player_detailpage"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Zi4kXgDBFhw?version=3&feature=player_detailpage" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="360"></object>

หลังเกิดภัยพิบัติแล้ว ระบบสาธารณูปโภค น้ำ ไฟฟ้า และอื่นๆ คงจะล่มสลาย แต่จะหยุดนานขนาดไหนนั้นคงคาดเดาไม่ได้ คงต้องเตรียมตัวสำหรับ พลังงาน และน้ำดื่มที่สะอาดไว้ด้วย ถ้ามีเครื่องกรองน้ำ และ ต้มน้ำด้วยยิ่งดีครับ เพราะถ้ามี คน สัตว์ ตายกันเป็นล้านแล้ว เราคงไม่สามารถบอกได้ว่าแหล่งน้ำนั้นสะอาดแค่ไหนนะครับ จริงๆแล้วเราควรจะต้องเตรียมปัจจัย 4 ให้พอเพียงในช่วงระยะเวลาหนึ่งด้วย



<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Zi4kXgDBFhw?version=3&feature=player_detailpage" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="640" height="360"><object style="height: 390px; width: 640px">


<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Zi4kXgDBFhw?version=3&feature=player_detailpage" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="640" height="360"></object>

 

ขออภัยคลิปข้างบนด้วยครับ มันเกินมา แต่หาที่ลบไม่ได้ครับ

 

วันนี้ลองขับรถ ตามหาจุดปลอดภัย ของพระคุณลุงดูค่ะ เริ่มจากวัดป่าดาราภิรมณ์ ซึ่งมีพระเขี้ยวฝาง ขององค์สมเด็จพระพุทธเจ้า และพระเจดีย์มีพระบรมสารีริกธาตุ (กำลังบูรณะ ค่ะ ) ที่วัดนี้ มีที่ปฎิบัติธรรมด้วยนะค่ะ ตัวเองได้เข้ากรรมฐาน ที่นี่ด้วยค่ะ เมื่อสองสามวันที่แล้ว
เล่าต่อ ขับรถไปพระพุทธบาทสี่รอย ระหว่างทางพยายามมองหา หมู่บ้านญี่ปุ่น และหมู่บ้านพุทธบุตร แต่ก็ไม่เห็นนะค่ะ คิดว่าคงอยู่ห่างไกลจากถนนค่ะ แต่มาเอะใจที่ คุณลุงบอกว่า จุดกึ่งกลางระหว่างวัดป่าดาราภิรมณ์ และพระพุทธบาทสี่รอย มีเขาล้อมรอบ ชาวบ้านปลูกมัน ปลูกถั่ว คิดว่าเจอละแวกนั้นแล้วค่ะ ดูอุดมสมบูรณ์ ดีค่ะ ระหว่างทางไปวัดพระพุทธบาทสี่รอย ชาวบ้านขายของข้างทางมี มัน มีสารพัดถั่ว ข้าวมันปู ข้าวแดงๆ ม่วงๆ และสมุนไพรค่ะ แต่มีวัดที่น่าสนใจนะค่ะ คือวัดหนองก๋าย เป็นวัดโบราณ มีที่ปฎิบัติธรรมด้วยค่ะ น่าจะเป็นจุดปลอดภัยนะค่ะ สำหรับผู้ที่คิดหาที่หลบภัยแถวนี้ ชาวบ้านก็ดู น่ารักนะค่ะ เพราะหลงทาง ถามทางเค้าก็ตั้งใจอธิบายทาง เราขวางทางที่ถนน คนขี่มอไชค์ผ่านมาก็ไม่ว่าแถมยิ้มให้ บอกไม่เป็นไร คงเป็นทางเลือกให้ท่านได้นะค่ะ ขอพูดถึงวัดป่าดาราภิรมณ์ หน่อยค่ะ เป็นวัดที่น่าสนใจนะค่ะ ท่านเจ้าคุณ ท่านเทศน์สอนทุกวันค่ะ ตอนทำวัตรเย็น มีการนั่งสมาธิ ทุกเย็น คนนอกเข้าร่วมได้ หรือต้องการปฎิบัติธรรม ท่านก็ยินดีต้อนรับค่ะ ทุกเย็นจะมีพระอาจาร์ย คอยสอบอารมณ์ ให้ค่ะ
มาปฎิบัติธรรมที่นี่ ตัวเองมีพลังค่ะ เพราะนั่งกรรมฐานใต้พระเขี้ยวแก้ว รู้สึกดีมากค่ะ และที่วัดนี้ ก็คิดว่าเป็นที่ๆปลอดภัยอีกแห่งนะค่ะ ท่านสร้างพระอุปคุตรุ่นคุ้มภัย แจกฟรีค่ะ (ทำบุญหนึ่งร้อยสำหรับไปทำบูญเก้าวัดค่ะ เป็นทุน) ถามพระอาจาร์ย ว่าป้องกันภัยพิบัติเหรอเจ้าค่ะ ท่านบอกว่า ใช่ แล้วมวลสารเข้มข้นมาก ใครไปเชียงใหม่ ต้องแวะมากราบให้ได้นะค่ะ แล้วตอนนี้จะได้ร่วมสร้างบุญด้วยค่ะ ทางวัดกำลังบูรณะ พระเจดีย์บรรจุ พระบรมสารีริกธาตุค่ะ
เล่าสู่กันฟังค่ะ เผื่อเป็นประโยชน์บ้างน่ะค่ะ

 

โมทนา สาธุ กับทุกท่าน และคุณ preeyasiri

เห็นด้วยทุกอย่างค่ะ

ช่วงปีใหม่ไปมาเหมือนกัน คิดเหมือนกันเลยค่ะ

ขอบคุณสำหรับคำแนะนำค่ะ